July 28, 2009 | Short Order

Intrepid G.G. Merkel Eats Jacques Torres Ice Cream

 
        Text and photographs by G.G. Merkel

        For the past few weeks, the presence of an ice cream cart skillfully placed outside of Jacques Torres on Amsterdam Avenue has distracted pedestrians and the recently obsessed fro-yo-ians, who instead choose to indulge in the creamy, all natural flavors provided by this chocolate store. Who knew, that beyond the quiet gray awning of Jacques Torres on Amsterdam & West 73rd street, lay such a variety of novelties to tempt the Upper West Side?

        New York teens especially are drawn to Torres’s adorable, rustic, ice cream stand which offers basic flavors such as chocolate, vanilla, and strawberry, along with peanut butter, raspberry white chocolate swirl, Torres’ signature spicy Wicked Chocolate, Banana Caramel and a rotation of sorbets, such as Mango, Raspberry and Coconut. For two scoops at $3.50, the subtle sweetness and creamy texture can’t be beat compared to a small cup running for $5 at it-shall-not-be-named gelato shop within a few block radius.

 

        I sampled the Wicked Chocolate, whose various spices include cinnamon, ginger, clove, nutmeg and fiery chili. With every swallow a satisfying throat tickling heat, was cooled by sweet overtones of chocolate. The texture was not as fudgy as, California based, Dr. Bob's, Scharffen Berger Really Dark Chocolate ice cream, nor as spicy as Ciao Bella's Jalapeno Chocolate Gelato. Rather, the Wicked has a mild after spice that has an intensity only realized after swallowing another smooth mouthful.   

        Handmade cones, rimmed with various embellishments such as nuts or chocolate sit piled next to a box of toppings including, malted milk balls, chocolate covered corn flakes, covered cheerios, macadamias, almonds and such. Many of these toppings are sold in the store, and can easily be made at home, but make for a delicious addition to an afternoon treat.

        If you really want to indulge, ask for an ice cream sandwich. For $5 you are rewarded with two “smaller” versions of Jacques Torres popular chocolate chip cookie, (4 inches in diameter) on top of two heaping scoops of the ice cream of your choice.

 

        One bite and I was in heaven. Immersing my taste buds in creamy waves of fresh strawberry bursts, balanced by the texture of the cookie, whose consistency is similar to a Chipwich; not soggy, crumbly or mushy, but cakey. Moistened cookie surrounds large satisfying hunks of chocolate that provide a satisfying snap to this monster treat.  Soon, the ice cream started to melt all over my hands, each bite became sweeter and sweeter and halfway through the enormous confection, to my surprise…I had had enough. Sticky with ice cream content, I entered the store to continue my research.

        What I learned from Marie, the store Manager, was that not only does the chocolate shop have a range of ganache filled chocolates, (referred to as bon bons by the staff), but every Saturday they receive a variety of cakes and assortments of pastries, including their wonderful chocolate chip cookies, a sinful moist flourless chocolate cake, and, (who’d have thought?), rotating flavors of cupcakes.
        Two varieties of Bombolini (a type of doughnut), one filled with chocolate cream, the other with no filling, sit adjacent to a pecan-encrusted tart that I need to try soon! Filling a tiered stand, conveniently placed near the coffee/hot chocolate bar, are groups of flaky croissants, pan au chocolat, and almond croissants.

        I think it’s too hot now for one of their famous, rich hot chocolates, but they offer them iced. An assortment of flavors are available including banana, peanut butter, caramel, classic rich chocolate, their spicy chili Wicked flavor and many more.  One large slush of solid, sweet chocolate filling a large plastic cup is enough to put anyone in sugar shock, but I’d go for one of these instead of a Starbucks Frap to ward off the summer heat.

 

        Compared to the downtown Hudson street location, which has a huge seating area, the Upper West Side location, has limited tush space. If you’re lucky and want to hang around, there might be a spot on the leather corner couch squeezed next to the hot chocolate bar, or at the three-seat window table, even if the few bar chairs might be full. Customers tend to grab and go with their confections, but while I was there, I took my sweet time, marveling at the lollipop tree (along with this other little tot).
 
        Their gift baskets include hot chocolate mixes, assorted bon bons, chocolate covered cheerios, nuts, milk balls and almost all the products in the store, depending on the size. The baskets make nice gifts to any chocoholic of yours, if you’re willing to spend $65 or more.

 

        Atop a marble counter, are rows of ganache filled chocolates. Among the twenty or so there, I managed to sample a few. The love bug bon bon, depicting an endearing lady bug, is made of a white chocolate shell encasing creamy, light, key lime ganache, a perfect summer candy. Bottom center is the 80% dark truffle, whose earthy chocolate surrounds a surprisingly smooth, subtly sweet, non-bitter center. The bon bon on the right, with a decorative outer shell is the Wicked, whose chipotle pepper inclusion provides a spicy heat to the smooth ganache encased by dark chocolate. Torres's champagne truffle, located in the center, is cork - shaped to give hint to it's milk chocolate center fused with Taittinger Brut La Francaise champagne, which provides an airier ganache.

 

        There are three bon bons with liquid centers; Heart of passion, Cappuccino, Liquid Caramel. I was not impressed by any of these. Passionfruit has an overly tangy sweetness, on the verge of citrus, with a filling that was not as molten as the Liquid Caramel, whose semi-medicinal flavor tasted more like butterscotch than sweet caramel. Cappuccino's artistic exterior did not make up for the burnt, brazened flavor of coffee emulsified inside sweet milk chocolate.

        Of the truffles I sampled, 80% Dark was my favorite. Enticing flavors such as Earl Gray, Chai, and Raspberry, not to mention a huge selection of chocolate bars, will have to wait for a future visit.

        When I have an intense chocolate craving, instead of paying $1.25 or more for a bon bon I would rather satiate my sweet tooth with an overwhelming but easily one of the best ice cream sandwiches in the city. In fact their big round chocolate chip cookies are the most popular item and I can see why, compared to an overpriced bag of chocolate covered corn flakes or cheerios (I guess it takes too much skill to cover cereal at home).

        The gray awning hides the stores cheerful interior and in my opinion, prevents customers from venturing inside. The space is not large enough to become a new Upper West Side hang out, or the next date spot for awkward middle schoolers (like Pinkberry) but their ice cream certainly satisfies. 285 Amsterdam Avenue at 73rd Street, 212 787 3256
 

Click here to read read more eating critiques by Ms. Merkel at GGEats NY.

Click here to return to the Short Order Archive.
 

 

 

 





Cafe Fiorello

ADVERTISE HERE